ZWO ASI 178MM Mono camera
The ZWO ASI178MM comes with an exciting, comparatively large, 1/1.8″, 6.4M pixels IMX178 sensor that features SONY STARVIS and Exmor R technology. This camera will mostly be used for high magnification Lunar and Solar imaging and for microscopic imaging, but it can also be used for deep sky imaging up to a certain level as it supports up to 1000seconds exposure time. This monochrome camera provides you with the best data output and therefore even better images (in comparison to a colour camera), but you'd have to add filters and a filter wheel when you take images of planets or deep sky, however you could use it as it is without colour filters for solar imaging (but still must have a solar filter in front of the telescope when observing or imaging the Sun!!!) |
Meet Merv
This may seem a strange piece of equipment. But how else are we supposed to get to some of the dark sky places and still have some home comforts. My wife and I have wanted a Motorhome for some years now and we are very lucky to now have one. This is "Merv" parked at Ashdown forest. The name was given to him by my wife who seems to want to give names to all things. |
Star Adventurer
For my portable setup The new Skywatcher Star Adventurer provides an excellent route into astrophotography for those using DSLR cameras with wide-field and medium focal length DSLR lenses. It's ease of use and aircraft-friendly size will also appeal to those wanting to travel to dark-sky locations. The user-friendly Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer provides various combinations to satisfy your grab-&-go portable astrophotography needs. It is a precise, portable and stable celestial tracking platform for sidereal, solar and lunar tracking with automatic DSLR shutter release control. |
Skywatcher Star Adventurer Equatorial Wedge
An optional, high precision equatorial wedge for the Skywatcher Star Adventurer. This will enable greater precision when polar aligning and setting the latitude which in turn will ensure better/longer tracking. Offers more accuracy and stability than a standard photo tripod head. I have mounted this on my Tripod mount for my NEQ6 as the "legs" are not used. This setup is a very solid platform for a portable setup but it is a little heavy. |
Sigma 10-20mm wide angle lens
I have purchase this lens to enable me to get better images of our MilkyWay. Lens is a secondhand purchase from e-bay. Shown here with my Canon 1100D camera. My first attempt at this target can be seen here |
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Guide Camera and Finderscope
This is the setup I use for guiding my telescopes. Using PHD2 I am able to do 20 minute exposures with no star trails. The guide camera is a QHY 5 II mono. Although the first one I had failed after 4 months Bernard at Modern Astronomy replaced it straight away. PHD2 recognised it straight away and it is so easy to lock onto a star as the finder scope has never failed to find me a nice selection to chose from. All that was needed to connect the camera was the removal of the viewing part and a custom adapter ring and the camera screws to the finder scope. I leave the setup intact and just move it from scope to scope. Note:- I did find PHD much less reliable than PHD2. Would recommend anybody upgrading to PHD2...It's nice. |
TS Imaging Star 65mm f/6.5 Quadruplet Astrograph
The TS Quadruplet Astrograph 65 mm f/6.5 of the TS Imaging Star Line offers a highly corrected focal plane for astro photography and is therefore an interesting alternative to the Takahashi FS-60 or the Pentax 75 SDHF. It is fine crafted and optimal for mobile deep-sky imaging featuring a minimum mechanical length of 340 mm (with retracted dew cap). Image quality on- and off-axis is perfect and the very low chromatic abberation allows a visual magnification range up to 150x They say the best scope is the one you use most. This is my favourite I have to say. It lovely to use and very good quality. I did once have an issue with pinched optics but Modern Astronomy (Bernard) talked me through eradicating that. |
TeamViewer
This is a piece of software that I use to control my computer in the observatory whilst staying warm indoors. When it's -4 degrees outside that is a major advantage I can tell you. I am able to control every PC function remotely, just as if I was in the observatory. My latest PlusNet wireless router gives a very strong wireless connection. So good I have no need to install Ethernet cables. If I needed to I would but this works fine. Software is free for control of just 1 PC which is all I use. I do still have to go outside to move the dome around. I could motorise it but I have better things to spend money on. |
Atik EFW2
Electronic Filter Wheel to add colour to your images. The Atik EFW2 motorized filter wheel is available with multiple filter capability over a range of filter sizes. This wheel employs exchangeable filter disks, allowing for multiple combinations, and has large 54mm openings on both sides. With these features, the EFW2 can easily support sensors up to full frame (35mm) format. The EFW2 also features a slick design, with a slim and lightweight profile. For example, the distance between any Atik camera and the wheel itself is 0mm, while still maintaining the possibility of rotating the camera to any desired position. My wheel is configured for x9 1.25" filters as listed to the right |
Filter order
1:L Clear 2:R 3:G 4:B 5:Ha 6:OIII 7:SII 8:CLS Astronomik 9: |
Atik 490
This camera is my Deep sky work horse. They were £1700 new when I got it. Mine was £900. It was purchased from a guy who had it for 8 months but never used it. Combined with the filter wheel EFW2 and using the Artimis software, data collection is a breeze. The Atik 490EX combines high resolution imaging with the incredible sensitivity of the Sony ICX814 sensor and versatility of the 4-Series design. The small 3,69 µm pixels are ideally matched with short-mid focal length telescopes for images rich in detail, while also displaying high performance at multiple binning levels. This opens up the possibility of working at longer focal lengths and boosting the already impressive sensitivity to capture even the faintest colour data. |
Lunt Solar Scope After a quick dash to Astrofest 2016 I finally purchased my Solar scope. This is the LS60THa and I have the 1200 blocking filter. First session with it was 7th February and I managed to see some surface detail and some prominences. Didn't get more than half hour for the session and that was spoilt by clouds:( Certainly has a WOW factor though with the glimpses that I did get. Looking forward to seeing some images. I intend to use my Mono DMK 21 with this scope The mounts are from my old Skywatcher 80. |
DMK 21AU618.AS Mono
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Planetary Camera
ZWO ASI120MC-S. USB 3 camera with a very high frame rate. I went for the colour mainly for ease of use. I love this little camera and since May 2015 I will use it where I can. Evidently it can be used for some Deep Sky objects but I prefer my Atik mono for that purpose. Compared to my IMG132E I can get 70fps where I would get say 35fps on the IMG, so it's much faster. I am using SharpCap software but not to pleased with it as it locks up on a regular basis. The Camera version I purchased also has a fish eye lens for whole sky time lapse which I have yet to investigate. |
My "Portable setup"
Modified tripod from HEQ6pro mount. Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer (Tracking) TS APO65q scope 65mm aperture / 420mm fl f/6.5 4 element APO telescope. ZWO ASI120MC-s colour camera Vixen finder scope I have invested in this portable setup so that I can obtain some LP free results. Gatwick lighting + that from houses around me is really bad. |
Catching Mercury 18th June 2012
This was my evening trip to the south downs where I was hoping to capture Mercury. The "Bongo" served as a nice retreat while waiting for twilight. I took some sun pictures at the same time. It was also a very popular event for the Locals. At one point I had a que of 4 people waiting to look through the lens. I thought I was going to miss Mercury as there was haze on the horizon. I think Mercury was only about 10 degrees away from the sun but I did manage to get it. Taken from Jack and Jill Windmills on the South Downs, Sussex. Sadly I no longer have the Bongo. It became to unreliable. |

This is my Skwatcher 250pds Newtonian Reflector.
This is a 10" diameter scope F4.7. It's great for imaging although I could do with a wider field of view.
Specification
250mm Parabolic Primary Mirror
Telescope Focal Length 1200mm (f/4.7)
1.25"/2" Dual-Speed 10:1 Crayford Focuser
0.5mm Ultra-Thin Secondary Mirror Supports
56% more Light-Gathering than 200mm
Eyepiece Supplied 2" 28mm long-eye-relief
Magnification (with eyepiece supplied) x43
9x50 Finderscope
It is mounted on a SW HEQ6pro mount which is mounted on a Altair Astro pier which is mounted onto 1 cubic meter concrete!
This is a 10" diameter scope F4.7. It's great for imaging although I could do with a wider field of view.
Specification
250mm Parabolic Primary Mirror
Telescope Focal Length 1200mm (f/4.7)
1.25"/2" Dual-Speed 10:1 Crayford Focuser
0.5mm Ultra-Thin Secondary Mirror Supports
56% more Light-Gathering than 200mm
Eyepiece Supplied 2" 28mm long-eye-relief
Magnification (with eyepiece supplied) x43
9x50 Finderscope
It is mounted on a SW HEQ6pro mount which is mounted on a Altair Astro pier which is mounted onto 1 cubic meter concrete!

Another picture of my SW 250p-ds.
In this shot you can see the HEQ6pro mount on top of the pier. The pier is bolted to concrete below the level of the decking.
You can also see my guide scope to the right of the big one. This is used to lock the view onto a star and keep it there for the exposure duration. I have successfully locked on to stars for well over 3 hours and I have accomplished exposure of 6 minutes.
Top left of the scope you can see my finder and my Canon 1100D camera.
In this shot you can see the HEQ6pro mount on top of the pier. The pier is bolted to concrete below the level of the decking.
You can also see my guide scope to the right of the big one. This is used to lock the view onto a star and keep it there for the exposure duration. I have successfully locked on to stars for well over 3 hours and I have accomplished exposure of 6 minutes.
Top left of the scope you can see my finder and my Canon 1100D camera.

The main scope in this picture is my Altair Astro ED110.
Attached to the scope is a Vixen flip mirror and behind that my Canon 1100D. On the right is my SW80 guide scope and attached to that is the Synguider. The SW80 is mounted onto a Guide scope mount to give me extra adjustment so that I can see more guide stars. It gives me more flexibility when selecting stars to use for guiding.
The Vixen flip mirror is a great little device. It allows you to mount a camera (prime focus) and at the same time an eye piece. It has a mirror that can be flipped in and out so you can easily switch between camera and eyepiece.
This picture was taken before the decking was laid. Pier is bolted to about 1 sq meter of very tough concrete. 1-5 was the recommended ballast/cement ratio. I think I used 1-4 or maybe stronger!
Attached to the scope is a Vixen flip mirror and behind that my Canon 1100D. On the right is my SW80 guide scope and attached to that is the Synguider. The SW80 is mounted onto a Guide scope mount to give me extra adjustment so that I can see more guide stars. It gives me more flexibility when selecting stars to use for guiding.
The Vixen flip mirror is a great little device. It allows you to mount a camera (prime focus) and at the same time an eye piece. It has a mirror that can be flipped in and out so you can easily switch between camera and eyepiece.
This picture was taken before the decking was laid. Pier is bolted to about 1 sq meter of very tough concrete. 1-5 was the recommended ballast/cement ratio. I think I used 1-4 or maybe stronger!

Construction of the pier base.
You can see the retaining bolts protruding above the concrete level. In the centre is a conduit which is used to pull wiring through into the mount directly. I want to avoid wires trailing around as much as I can. There are a lot of cables in this hobby!
You can see the retaining bolts protruding above the concrete level. In the centre is a conduit which is used to pull wiring through into the mount directly. I want to avoid wires trailing around as much as I can. There are a lot of cables in this hobby!

This scope is my Vixen VC200L
The VC 200L is an 8" f/9.0 highly corrected, highly specialized telescope for astro imaging. The focal length is 1800mm. This is a wonderful pice of kit but with f/9.0 and my light polluted sky it's not the easiest thing to use. However a Focal reducer 0.71x is available. This would bring the f/ down to f/6.4 and the focal length to 1278mm.
This picture was taken before my pier was built. HEQ5 pro is the mount and tripod which I have sold on now.
The VC 200L is an 8" f/9.0 highly corrected, highly specialized telescope for astro imaging. The focal length is 1800mm. This is a wonderful pice of kit but with f/9.0 and my light polluted sky it's not the easiest thing to use. However a Focal reducer 0.71x is available. This would bring the f/ down to f/6.4 and the focal length to 1278mm.
This picture was taken before my pier was built. HEQ5 pro is the mount and tripod which I have sold on now.

My 1st Scope
Now sold :(
I realised within a few weeks of getting this that I would outgrow it very quickly. I was very lucky that I have an understanding wife and I did get some really good orders for my business that month and it enabled me to buy better equipment. Astronomia in Dorking were a great help to me and they took this scope in part exchange. In fact they paid me what it cost me which can't be bad :)
Have now Sold this device. It served me well !
Now sold :(
I realised within a few weeks of getting this that I would outgrow it very quickly. I was very lucky that I have an understanding wife and I did get some really good orders for my business that month and it enabled me to buy better equipment. Astronomia in Dorking were a great help to me and they took this scope in part exchange. In fact they paid me what it cost me which can't be bad :)
Have now Sold this device. It served me well !

Closeup of my guide Scope.
In this picture you can see the SW80 which although the optics are not high quality makes a grand little guiding scope. It is mounted on a SW guide scope mount so massive amounts of adjustments can be easily made.
My synguider is mounted onto the eyepiece end and acts as a stand alone guider. With careful attention to setup some very accurate guiding is possible.
I also have two dew band (12v heaters) attached to the scope to keep dew at bay. These seem to work very well. They plug into a control box and each band is temperature controlled independently. Lower right you can see the 3 counter balance weights need for my largest telescope.
Have now Sold this device. It served me well !
In this picture you can see the SW80 which although the optics are not high quality makes a grand little guiding scope. It is mounted on a SW guide scope mount so massive amounts of adjustments can be easily made.
My synguider is mounted onto the eyepiece end and acts as a stand alone guider. With careful attention to setup some very accurate guiding is possible.
I also have two dew band (12v heaters) attached to the scope to keep dew at bay. These seem to work very well. They plug into a control box and each band is temperature controlled independently. Lower right you can see the 3 counter balance weights need for my largest telescope.
Have now Sold this device. It served me well !

Close up of Camera Canon 1100D ( Modded)
Here you see the dual speed focuser which is adequate although a motor drive is tempting! Between the focuser and camera is a Coma corrector which I leave permanently connected.
The camera is a Canon 1100D (courtesy of tesco vouchers!) and has been modded to have the IR filter removed. This gives a far better response to IR targets of which there are many in the sky.
Below the camera you can see my telrad type finder which is excellent.
Here you see the dual speed focuser which is adequate although a motor drive is tempting! Between the focuser and camera is a Coma corrector which I leave permanently connected.
The camera is a Canon 1100D (courtesy of tesco vouchers!) and has been modded to have the IR filter removed. This gives a far better response to IR targets of which there are many in the sky.
Below the camera you can see my telrad type finder which is excellent.

SkyWatcher NEQ6 pro mount
I upgraded my mount in February 2013 to handle the weight of my 10" Newtonian. It seems to handle everything I throw at it so I am pleased I got it.
Since I mounted it on a pier the Polar alignment is very accurate. Every time I use it I check the alignment but it is months since I have had to tweak it. I love using this and I love not having to pack it all away every night.
I have modded the adjustment bolt for Alt and Azimuth as the ones supplied are very poor and I have heard they can strip the thread.
I upgraded my mount in February 2013 to handle the weight of my 10" Newtonian. It seems to handle everything I throw at it so I am pleased I got it.
Since I mounted it on a pier the Polar alignment is very accurate. Every time I use it I check the alignment but it is months since I have had to tweak it. I love using this and I love not having to pack it all away every night.
I have modded the adjustment bolt for Alt and Azimuth as the ones supplied are very poor and I have heard they can strip the thread.

SynScan hand controller
A self contained mini computer. This holds thousand of sky objects in its memory. Couldn't do a thing without it. I have extended the lead that comes with it as the supplied length is pathetic.
I am currently looking at controlling the mount direct from my laptop. I could then use a program such as Stellarium to move the scope around the sky. Work in progress on that side of things
A self contained mini computer. This holds thousand of sky objects in its memory. Couldn't do a thing without it. I have extended the lead that comes with it as the supplied length is pathetic.
I am currently looking at controlling the mount direct from my laptop. I could then use a program such as Stellarium to move the scope around the sky. Work in progress on that side of things

Skywatcher mount NEQ6 pro
Mount adjustment bolts left and right and bottom right of picture. Don't adjust these much now I am pier mounted.
The modified adjustment bolts for Alt and Azimuth can be seen left and right.
Mount adjustment bolts left and right and bottom right of picture. Don't adjust these much now I am pier mounted.
The modified adjustment bolts for Alt and Azimuth can be seen left and right.

SkyWatcher Logo
No other reason to post this picture other than I like it. Setting up one evening I noticed this reflection on the 10" Newtonian.
No other reason to post this picture other than I like it. Setting up one evening I noticed this reflection on the 10" Newtonian.

Bits Box
Everybody has one, I have 4. On damp nights you need to keep things dry so these are perfect, providing I don't forget to put the lid on!
Everybody has one, I have 4. On damp nights you need to keep things dry so these are perfect, providing I don't forget to put the lid on!

Lumacomi Observatory
In the end I went for a Pulsar Observatory as the wait to get the Skyshed Pod was far to long.
This was more expensive but I think far superior. It gives better protection and I can access the whole sky. This was my 60th birthday present from my wife. Thank you darling !
I let my wife chose the name of Lumacomi. It's nothing to do with astronomy it is taken from the first two letter of our four dogs names. Luna, Maya, Coco and Miko.
In the end I went for a Pulsar Observatory as the wait to get the Skyshed Pod was far to long.
This was more expensive but I think far superior. It gives better protection and I can access the whole sky. This was my 60th birthday present from my wife. Thank you darling !
I let my wife chose the name of Lumacomi. It's nothing to do with astronomy it is taken from the first two letter of our four dogs names. Luna, Maya, Coco and Miko.